May 29th. [1858]
This morning we visited the church of the Dominicans, where we saw some quaint pictures by Fra Angelico, with a good deal of religious sin cerity in them ; also a picture of St. Columbo by Perugino, which unquestionably is very good. To confess the truth, I took more interest in a fair Gothic monument, in white marble, of Pope Benedict XII., representing him reclining under a canopy, while two angels draw aside the curtain, the canopy being supported by twisted columns, richly ornamented. I like this overflow and gratuity of device with which Gothic sculpture works out its designs, after seeing so much of the simplicity of classic art in marble.
We then tried to find the church of San Pietro in Martire, but without success, although every person of whom we inquired immediately attached himself or herself to us, and could hardly be got rid of by any efforts on our part. Nobody seemed to know the church we wished for, but all directed us to another church of San Pietro, which contains nothing of interest; whereas the right church is supposed to contain a celebrated picture by Perugino.
Finally, we ascended the hill and the city proper of Perugia (for our hotel is in one of the suburbs), and J ---- and I set out on a ramble about the city. It was market day, and the principal piazza, with the neighbouring streets, was crowded with people ....
The best part of Perugia that in which the grand piazzas and the principal public edifices stand seems to be a nearly level plateau on the summit of the hill; but it is of no very great extent, and the streets rapidly run downward on either side. J---- and I followed one of these descending streets, and were led a long way by it, till we at last emerged from one of the gates of the city, and had another view of the mountains and valleys, the fertile and sunny wilderness in which this ancient civilisation stands.
On the right of the gate there was a rude country path, partly overgrown with grass, bordered by a hedge on one side, and on the other by the grey city wall, at the. base of which the tract crept onward. We followed it, hoping that it would lead us to some other gate by which we might re-enter the city; but it soon grew so indistinct and broken, that it was evidently on the point of melting into somebody's, olive orchard or wheat-fields or vineyards, all of which lay on the other side of the hedge; and a kindly old woman of whom I inquired told me (if I rightly understood her Italian) that I should find no further passage in that direction. So we turned back, much broiled in the hot sun, and only now and then relieved by the shadow of an angle or a tower.
A lame beggar-man sat by the gate, and as we passed him J---- gave him two baiocchi (which he himself had begged of me to buy an orange with), and was loaded with the pauper's prayers and benedictions as we entered the city. A great many blessings can be bought for very little money anywhere in Italy, and whether they avail anything or no, it is pleasant to see that the beggars have gratitude enough to bestow them in such abundance.
Of all beggars I think a little fellow who rode beside our carriage on a stick his bare feet scampering merrily, while he managed his steed with one hand, and held out the other for harity, howling piteously the while amused me most.
This morning we visited the church of the Dominicans, where we saw some quaint pictures by Fra Angelico, with a good deal of religious sin cerity in them ; also a picture of St. Columbo by Perugino, which unquestionably is very good. To confess the truth, I took more interest in a fair Gothic monument, in white marble, of Pope Benedict XII., representing him reclining under a canopy, while two angels draw aside the curtain, the canopy being supported by twisted columns, richly ornamented. I like this overflow and gratuity of device with which Gothic sculpture works out its designs, after seeing so much of the simplicity of classic art in marble.
We then tried to find the church of San Pietro in Martire, but without success, although every person of whom we inquired immediately attached himself or herself to us, and could hardly be got rid of by any efforts on our part. Nobody seemed to know the church we wished for, but all directed us to another church of San Pietro, which contains nothing of interest; whereas the right church is supposed to contain a celebrated picture by Perugino.
Finally, we ascended the hill and the city proper of Perugia (for our hotel is in one of the suburbs), and J ---- and I set out on a ramble about the city. It was market day, and the principal piazza, with the neighbouring streets, was crowded with people ....
The best part of Perugia that in which the grand piazzas and the principal public edifices stand seems to be a nearly level plateau on the summit of the hill; but it is of no very great extent, and the streets rapidly run downward on either side. J---- and I followed one of these descending streets, and were led a long way by it, till we at last emerged from one of the gates of the city, and had another view of the mountains and valleys, the fertile and sunny wilderness in which this ancient civilisation stands.
On the right of the gate there was a rude country path, partly overgrown with grass, bordered by a hedge on one side, and on the other by the grey city wall, at the. base of which the tract crept onward. We followed it, hoping that it would lead us to some other gate by which we might re-enter the city; but it soon grew so indistinct and broken, that it was evidently on the point of melting into somebody's, olive orchard or wheat-fields or vineyards, all of which lay on the other side of the hedge; and a kindly old woman of whom I inquired told me (if I rightly understood her Italian) that I should find no further passage in that direction. So we turned back, much broiled in the hot sun, and only now and then relieved by the shadow of an angle or a tower.
A lame beggar-man sat by the gate, and as we passed him J---- gave him two baiocchi (which he himself had begged of me to buy an orange with), and was loaded with the pauper's prayers and benedictions as we entered the city. A great many blessings can be bought for very little money anywhere in Italy, and whether they avail anything or no, it is pleasant to see that the beggars have gratitude enough to bestow them in such abundance.
Of all beggars I think a little fellow who rode beside our carriage on a stick his bare feet scampering merrily, while he managed his steed with one hand, and held out the other for harity, howling piteously the while amused me most.
No comments:
Post a Comment